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Topic : Bearing questions
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 Cody 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/04/2010
Posts : 208
Location : Siloam Springs, Arkansas, United States
Posted : 31 May 2023 - 01:24   Post title : Bearing questions
 
Hey guys,
I have some questions about bearings, specifically wheel and hub bearings. If you have an opinion or experience, please chime in.

The questions I have to do with sealed bearings vs not sealed, the rubber seal in the sides of the bearing, greasing the bearing, and the purpose of the discreet grease seal.

To start with, I'm looking at the hub bearing that isn't the needle bearing. It's the other one (size 25 52 15, Part# T3800139). I see a black rubber seal on both sides that protect the balls inside the bearing. I very carefully picked at the rubber, trying to raise if from its bed, but it seemed to be tightly set, and I didn't want to break the integrity of the seal, so I finally just let it be. So, the questions are: Is this considered a sealed bearing? I looked online for comparable bearings and found a few with the same dimensions. The bearings with similar looking black rubber seals didn't claim to be a "sealed bearing". However I did see a few claiming to be sealed bearings, but they looked to have colored seals - usually blue, and some were metal. They were also more expensive. My experience is that if a product doesn't claim to be something, it isn't. I should be well within spec for bearing load and rpm. Let me know if you think otherwise.

Back to the Triumph supplied bearing. How is this bearing greased. Is it pre-greased? I don't see a way to press grease past the black rubber seal. I've read old posts from around 2014, and someone said he drilled holes into the rubber so he could inject grease into the ball race. I understand the logic, but I think that's a little extreme. I think that bearing technology should be at the point that they shouldn't need modification to be properly greased. I also read that someone removed the seal on one side so he could grease it. Why would the manufacturer put seals on the bearing just to have the customer remove them? Doesn't make much sense. There is a separate discreet grease seal protecting the bearing. If I work grease up under that seal, will the grease work its way into the bearing? I didn't read the service manual cover to cover, but I didn't see anything about this.

The pin bearing came packed with white gunk (lithium grease?) I cleaned it out with solvent, water and detergent and compressed air, and replaced it with regular axle grease.

I bought Timken sealed bearings from Amazon for the wheels. I see that a lot of modern bikes, crotch rockets mostly, use sealed bearings, so I figured why not. The hub and pulley bearings were Triumph OEM parts from Hermy's eStore.

The hub pulley is disassembled but I'm waiting for a bearing puller that I ordered from Amazon to pull the wheel bearings. I have all the bearings ready to go. Actually, the old bearings I've managed to pull looked pretty good, despite neglecting to change them since I bought the bike new in 2012. They weren't dry and the grease was not emulsified or mixed with water. Even the needle bearing looked okay and still rolled with ease and without noise. I wanted to change it anyway, and I destroyed it getting it out. Damn, what a bitch to get out! I broke the inner ring hammering on it, even after heating the hub with a torch.

Like I said, I read through some of the old posts, but they mostly dealt with Matt's 3-bearing mod, or they harped on keeping everything greased or pay the consequences (Dave!). It also seems like a lot of those guys have moved on from the T-bird and this website, but it's good to see those still left here. I want to keep my bird running, cuz if I trade it for anything, it will probably be for a walker.

Cheers,
Cody, aka John

 
This country was founded on the premise that I would have freedom from your religion.
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 31 May 2023 - 02:29   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Cody)
 
Hi Cody, I have always treated them as sealed bearings, having said that I think the plastic seals are more to do with keeping grease in than keeping water out, yes they are pre greased. The side seals can be carefully removed if you want to repack the bearing with grease and you can push the seal back in quite easily. It's probably not worth the hassle though as new quality bearings are not expensive as you probably know. The needle roller is very hard to remove and will not come out unscathed and I am not even sure if it's available aftermarket. Again the complete hub from Triumph wasn't expensive last time I bought one so I didn't bother mucking around with them.

I have a couple of spares at home now that I may modify in the future. The bearings in the wheels should not need a puller, they are interference fit, so will just drift out quite easily with care. If you have managed to buy the correct needle roller for the hub I would suggest freezing it and warming the hub before you try to fit it.



 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 31 May 2023 - 05:08   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Cody)
 
Leethal is correct, and needle bearing is not available. I ordered part number from manual and got a bearing for 1st-version hub that has long since been replaced. Inner race is not available either, so useless x2. Long post about it here somewhere, "rear hub revisited," I think. Ongoing battle, that one. Best get a new hub while you can, was about $65US.


 

 Author 
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 Cody 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/04/2010
Posts : 208
Location : Siloam Springs, Arkansas, United States
Posted : 01 Jun 2023 - 17:34   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 
Leethal, thanks for the input. Everything you said is about what I figured. Sometimes all I need is a little reassurance to soldier on.

If the bearing is sealed then I'm not going to worry too much about keeping it greased. Now that I've done the job once, I won't be so intimidated to do it again. It shouldn't take me 11 years to change them again.

I tried drifting the bearings out of the rear wheel, but I just couldn't get a good bite on the edge with the tools I've got. However, if the puller doesn't arrive soon, I think I'll give it another shot. The puller, I'm sure, is coming from China.

I haven't priced Triumph's hub, but it's hard to imagine that it's cheap. In my experience nothing is cheap from Triumph. I might consider the whole hub solution next time.

 
This country was founded on the premise that I would have freedom from your religion.
 Author 
Post  
 Cody 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/04/2010
Posts : 208
Location : Siloam Springs, Arkansas, United States
Posted : 01 Jun 2023 - 17:54   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
MotorMac, I found the correct needle bearing at Hermy's Online eStore. Link The parts page lists two bearings, one for below a certain VIN number, and another for above that VIN number. I wouldn't have know about the difference if I hadn't read some of the old posts. I got it fitted without completely destroying it. Score one for me!

Thanks again guys for getting back to me on this. The closest dealer is 200 miles away, (Oklahoma City, OK) so I do all the maintenance I can to keep my old bird running.

(Why, oh why, did I let the little woman talk me into moving to Arkansas????

 
This country was founded on the premise that I would have freedom from your religion.
Post edited by Cody on 01 Jun 2023 - 18:02
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 01 Jun 2023 - 21:30   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Cody)
 
In the link you supplied look at item #9 x 2 , it's the complete hub, all up around $125 US.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 Cody 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/04/2010
Posts : 208
Location : Siloam Springs, Arkansas, United States
Posted : 02 Jun 2023 - 03:08   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 

Leethal wrote:

In the link you supplied look at item #9 x 2 , it's the complete hub, all up around $125 US.


Ah, yeah. Thanks for pointing out the stress and $$ I could have avoided. You know the old saying, "Experience is the sum total of all your mistakes." At this point in my life, I have TON of experience. (and I seem to be gaining more every day.) That's okay though. I'm learning things that I didn't know before. It's kind of a "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" thing. Yeah, that's it.





 
This country was founded on the premise that I would have freedom from your religion.
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 02 Jun 2023 - 03:34   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Cody)
 
Cody, that's HUGE, thank you!
Not sure what the VIN number proves; I got a recall notice from Triumph saying hub assembly must be replaced with new version, so I got a new one ($65 at the time) and stupidly tossed the original - which was never a problem.
Having made a brass drift to extract new version needle bearing, this means I don't have to scrap the entire hub.
Only wish I had kept the original hub. (2009 1600.)
Thanks!


 

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 Bender 
Chaac
Reg. Date : 26/09/2010
Posts : 659
Location : Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
Posted : 03 Jun 2023 - 10:36   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
Just curious guy's is that the Triumph part number

T2010636
Kit, Pulley Assy

I have an early Bird Late 2009 will this fit

Thanks


 
BENDER Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
Thunderbird 1600, Foran exhaust,cat eliminator,Twin T Bars, K and N filter, Led Headlight, Rivco driving Lights, Viking Bags,quick release sissy Bar,.Joker oil pressure Gauge met-cruise seat Dyno Tune + more
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 03 Jun 2023 - 21:06   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Bender)
 
Bender, your question seemed simple enough....

T2010636 is factory part number for entire hub assembly, per Adept Power Sports Link - Adept shows exactly ONE hub/bearing/race.
And, inner race (#13 in diagram) is GONE, missing entirely from Adapt's parts list and allegedly unavailable.
(They weren't too pleased with Triumph when last we spoke about this very assembly.)

Hermys site (Cody's link Link ) uses exact same factory diagram, but appears to have TWO hub assemblies, TWO needle bearings, and TWO inner races --- divided by TWO DIFFERENT VIN numbers.
From Hermys site:

#9 hub assembly >470183 ($73.52, TT2010636) and #9 hub assembly 470184> ($52.87, T2010631)
#11 needle bearing >454618 part# T3800500 and 454619> part# T3800501
#13 bearing race >454618 part# T2010471 and 454619> part#T2010473

So, we have one VIN number division for two INTERCHANGEABLE hub assemblies, and (wait for it)
a second VIN number division for pairs of needle bearings and races that fit those INTERCHANGEABLE hubs.

WTF is this nonsense??? No wonder Adapt is unhappy, who can track this crap? Kudos to Hermys. I'm getting a headache.

My VIN is way earlier than either VIN division, so I'm going to see if I can get the early hub assembly, assuming it will have the early (bigger) needle bearing that never made a peep.
I now have three "revised" hubs: The whining one on the bike, the squealer it replaced, and a brand-new one that was going to be replacement #3. If I can find the recall notice, I'll scan and post it. What PITA.

UPDATE: Ordered hub assembly T2010631 - MUST be the older/original hub (PLEASE!) - three I have are all T2010636.
TIP: Hermys wants last 6 of VIN number, then said mine was "invalid" for some reason. But. it took full VIN. Fingers crossed.

Early post re the hub delimma here: Link


 

 Author 
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 Bender 
Chaac
Reg. Date : 26/09/2010
Posts : 659
Location : Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
Posted : 04 Jun 2023 - 04:38   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 

MotorMac wrote:

Bender, your question seemed simple enough....

T2010636 is factory part number for entire hub assembly, per Adept Power Sports Link - Adept shows exactly ONE hub/bearing/race.
And, inner race (#13 in diagram) is GONE, missing entirely from Adapt's parts list and allegedly unavailable.
(They weren't too pleased with Triumph when last we spoke about this very assembly.)

Hermys site (Cody's link Link ) uses exact same factory diagram, but appears to have TWO hub assemblies, TWO needle bearings, and TWO inner races --- divided by TWO DIFFERENT VIN numbers.
From Hermys site:

#9 hub assembly >470183 ($73.52, TT2010636) and #9 hub assembly 470184> ($52.87, T2010631)
#11 needle bearing >454618 part# T3800500 and 454619> part# T3800501
#13 bearing race >454618 part# T2010471 and 454619> part#T2010473

So, we have one VIN number division for two INTERCHANGEABLE hub assemblies, and (wait for it)
a second VIN number division for pairs of needle bearings and races that fit those INTERCHANGEABLE hubs.

WTF is this nonsense??? No wonder Adapt is unhappy, who can track this crap? Kudos to Hermys. I'm getting a headache.

My VIN is way earlier than either VIN division, so I'm going to see if I can get the early hub assembly, assuming it will have the early (bigger) needle bearing that never made a peep.
I now have three "revised" hubs: The whining one on the bike, the squealer it replaced, and a brand-new one that was going to be replacement #3. If I can find the recall notice, I'll scan and post it. What PITA.

UPDATE: Ordered hub assembly T2010631 - MUST be the older/original hub (PLEASE!) - three I have are all T2010636.
TIP: Hermys wants last 6 of VIN number, then said mine was "invalid" for some reason. But. it took full VIN. Fingers crossed.

Early post re the hub delimma here: Link


Thanks Motomac like you said a big answer for a supposedly simple question my Vin is earlier than yours but I think I understand your answer.
I do not have any issues with my origanal rear Hub at the moment But I will be looking for one in OZ next week becuase of Murphy's law, thats why I have been following these threads. Thanks again will let you know how I go.

 
BENDER Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
Thunderbird 1600, Foran exhaust,cat eliminator,Twin T Bars, K and N filter, Led Headlight, Rivco driving Lights, Viking Bags,quick release sissy Bar,.Joker oil pressure Gauge met-cruise seat Dyno Tune + more
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 04 Jun 2023 - 21:42   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Bender)
 

Bender wrote:

Just curious guy's is that the Triumph part number

T2010636
Kit, Pulley Assy

I have an early Bird Late 2009 will this fit

Thanks


Mate it is quite simple. Triumph only do one pulley/hub assembly as the old one was superceded. Just order for your year as normal and they will supply the correct one.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 05 Jun 2023 - 00:48   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 
Well, let me muddy things up a bit more then.

Adapt link shows both #9 and #10 in diagram as entire carrier assembly T2010636 (#9).
They list needle bearing 30/37/24 - T3800500 as #11 (does not fit new hub), while inner race #13 is MIA.
They also explained situation as Leethal did - old hub superseded by new one.

Hermys link has #9 carrier assembly T2010631 and new version T2010636.
#10 hub is missing from parts list.
2x#11 needle bearings 30/37/24 - T3800500 and 26/35/30 - T3800501
2x#13 races 20.2/30/40.5 - T2010471 and 20/26/40.5 - T2010473

PartsSS Link (EU) has two of everything listed. With more part numbers!
2x#9 Carrier assemblies T2010461 and T2010460 (unavailable)
2x #10 hubs T2010450 and T2010636 (=entire assembly?)
2x #11 needle bearings 30/37/24 - T3800500 and 26/35/30 - T3800501
2x #13 race 20/26/40.5 - T2010473 and 20.2/30/40.5 - T2010471

Ordered T2010631 from Hermys, will see what arrives.
Carrier assemblies are interchangeable on the bike; difference is needle bearing, race and internal machining of hub to accommodate both.

Why does it matter?
Because old hub had a slightly bigger needle bearing that was never a problem. Two of the new version hubs have failed, latest one went less than 1,000 miles before it started making an all-too-familiar noise.

 

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 AZCactus 
Taranis
Reg. Date : 01/05/2013
Posts : 4,524
Location : AZ
Posted : 05 Jun 2023 - 19:34   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
MotorMac wrote:

Why does it matter?
Because old hub had a slightly bigger needle bearing that was never a problem. Two of the new version hubs have failed, latest one went less than 1,000 miles before it started making an all-too-familiar noise.

Ok I'll bite...hook, line, and sinker And not to doubt your parts analysis but if I understand you correctly, Triumph replaced the original hub with an inferior part?! How can that be?? Btw I installed the "upgraded" hub because it was recommended at the time. ...anyway no problems.


 
2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore

 Author 
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 Cody 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/04/2010
Posts : 208
Location : Siloam Springs, Arkansas, United States
Posted : 05 Jun 2023 - 21:02   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 
My bearing puller finally came, and it took me about five minutes to pull each bearing, compared to banging away for about an hour last week without any movement at all from the bearing. This is what I ordered, Link but it looks like I got the last one. I would recommend this or something like it.

I just came in from reinstalling the rear wheel. Now THAT is one job that I don't look forward to. It takes about 4 hands and three sets of eyes to keep track of the spacers falling out, trying to get the disk into the brake caliper, lifting the wheel and trying to line up with the holes. I always manage to get it done but not without an undue amount of cursing, sweating and trying not to throw out my back. I tied the hub and wheel together with an old bicycle inner tube, which helped.

The whole thing took about two weeks with all the interruptions. I spent the last couple of days trying to figure out how everything went back together. Every time I planned to work on the bike, something came up. My niece graduated from high school, so I drove to Oklahoma to spend four days at my sister's place. Then my desktop computer went flakey and I spent a day figuring that out. Had to replace bad memory. (I found memtest86+ to test memory. You write the ISO to a thumb drive and boot to it. Works great and it's free.) The computer is a priority...that's just the way it is. The bearing puller took over a week to be delivered. That was the biggest delay. This morning when I was planning to finish up the bike, the garden water faucet stopped working, It was kinda funny watching my wife from the kitchen window, trying to figure out why there was no water coming out. She stood there for a long time, just staring at the hose nozzle. I had to track down a repair kit and fix that. Then there's all the wife's normal honey-doos. Man, if it's not one thing, it's something else. But the bike is almost ride-able again. I just have to put the exhaust and the belt guard back on. Then there's the ever present and ongoing belt alignment task. Maybe I'll get to ride it before the summer is over.



 
This country was founded on the premise that I would have freedom from your religion.
Post edited by Cody on 05 Jun 2023 - 21:03
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 06 Jun 2023 - 13:59   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: AZCactus)
 
AZCactus wrote:
Triumph replaced the original hub with an inferior part?!

Correct.
Best guess is that some egghead decided housing needed an extra millimeter or two of metal and took it from the bearing.

AZCactus wrote:
Btw I installed the "upgraded" hub because it was recommended at the time. ...anyway no problems.

I imagine the hub would indeed perform flawlessly while bike is in storage, yes.



 

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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 06 Jun 2023 - 22:24   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
I replaced my original hub around the 100000 km mark, it wasn't faulty, and my current one is at 80000kms with no problems. My Bird is a 2011 year model and I bought it in 10/2010 so it may have had the updated one from the start. Either way I have to say it's a reliable design.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 08 Jun 2023 - 16:12   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 
Agreed, nothing wrong with design, just wish they'd left it alone.
VIN split from Hermys should tell which carrier you had. They just shipped (old version?), 5 days into 2-day shipping option so far. Will see what arrives.
The 2010+ Thunderbird is still the smoothest, sweetest bike on the road.

 

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 AZCactus 
Taranis
Reg. Date : 01/05/2013
Posts : 4,524
Location : AZ
Posted : 09 Jun 2023 - 00:10   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 

MotorMac wrote:
...The 2010+ Thunderbird is still the smoothest, sweetest bike on the road.

If you say so


 
2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore

 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 09 Jun 2023 - 02:52   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 

MotorMac wrote:

Agreed, nothing wrong with design, just wish they'd left it alone.
VIN split from Hermys should tell which carrier you had. They just shipped (old version?), 5 days into 2-day shipping option so far. Will see what arrives.
The 2010+ Thunderbird is still the smoothest, sweetest bike on the road.


So do they actually supply both? When I was in business once a part was superceded with an updated version the old part was discontinued.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 09 Jun 2023 - 23:10   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Leethal)
 
Hermys delivered. Inner race measures the same as the other two carrier assemblies, all three are stamped 2010451.
So, there you have it. Ordered the old version, got the new version anyway - so Lee, you're right again, the old part is history.
Was worth a try. Would have been (pleasantly) surprised to get an old assembly - but was expecting revised part.

So, guess I back off the belt tension even more than I have already, and hope this one lasts longer than its two predecessors.



And yes AZ, you know it is! Have to smile whenever I'm sitting next to a Harley that's shaking like a belly dancer.

 

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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
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Posted : 10 Jun 2023 - 07:34   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
I run my belt with at least 20mm deflection, wheel off the ground.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 AZCactus 
Taranis
Reg. Date : 01/05/2013
Posts : 4,524
Location : AZ
Posted : 10 Jun 2023 - 23:00   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
MotorMac wrote:

I may have missed something but I don't think belt tension or hub is the problem (from a layman's view). Belt tension is too tight but wear pattern isn't uniform? Hub replaced twice but what are the odds of two defective hubs?
I think there's something misaligned or bent! My two centavos but don't take it to a US bank!


 
2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore

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 Linkdog 
Thor
Reg. Date : 10/02/2011
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Location : Groveland, FL., United States
Posted : 12 Jun 2023 - 01:17   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: AZCactus)
 
Motormac, have you tried looking for an earlier hub through a scrap yard? I think theres one in melbourne, fl. Rayglo found an engine there. If you can find one you can easily do Matts conversion. I've had this since Matt did his ( years ) and no problems.

 
Never drink from a cow with one udder! 2010 1600 Blue&White ( of course ) Long TORS and HP filter.
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 MotorMac 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 29/08/2010
Posts : 1,790
Location : Nor Cal, United States
Posted : 12 Jun 2023 - 15:10   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: Linkdog)
 

Linkdog wrote:

Motormac, have you tried looking for an earlier hub through a scrap yard? I think theres one in melbourne, fl. Rayglo found an engine there. If you can find one you can easily do Matts conversion. I've had this since Matt did his ( years ) and no problems.


Still can't believe I tossed my old hub, to be recycled into Bud Light cans...

I found bearings to fit the new hub for same mod Mat did - either use 3 without circlip, or 2 with a spacer. Same mod, different bearings. Now that I have an empty (new) hub and know I can't get old version, I'll get on with it. (Posted details here somewhere.)

To AZ's suggestion: If belt alignment was anything less than perfect, the built-in alarm would be screaming at me.


 

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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 12 Jun 2023 - 20:50   Post title : Re: Bearing questions (Re: MotorMac)
 
Not necessarily. When my bike was fairly new I had a rear tyre fitted at the dealer, went on my first flocking of around 2500kms. When I returned and cleaned the bike I noticed black dust build up around the belt pulley, the belt had lost 1.5mm in width and never made a sound.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.